The question for the future is how to understand and accept the new textile balance … Painting was declared dead the day photography was invented in 1839 — but we know now that it was not. – Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer campaign was released yesterday (Monday, January 4), and the Internet had a collective meltdown and not because of the clothes. Which topic received more attention probably depends on which social media feeds one follows.
On one hand, there’s the fact that Jaden Smith, who is a very interesting and trend-breaking young man in the first place, is pictured on the campaign next to models Sarah Brannon, Jean Campbell, and Rianne Van Rompaey. Jaden’s appearance alone would be noteworthy, but what has tongues wagging is that Jaden is wearing women’s clothes.
Anyone who follows Jaden at any level isn’t terribly surprised by this move. If anything, it would seem to fit his eclectic and often difficult to understand personality quite well. Jaden is, and always has been, his own person. Famous parents notwithstanding, Jaden has proven himself a deep thinker, his quotes proving challenging for even the most educated of philosophers. He rejects many of society’s limitations and definitions which makes his appearance in women’s wear rather unsurprising.
Why this matters is because it is the most obvious and influential example of gender fluidity we’ve seen from a major fashion label. Louis Vuitton is the flagship of fashion’s mega-conglomerate LVMH. Labels at this end of the spectrum rarely court controversy on any level. Most campaigns are, quite honestly, so mainstream as to be rather boring. Gender blending goes exactly the opposite direction, inviting criticism from conservative circles that doubtlessly include many Vuitton customers. The campaign champions those who dare to be different, social heros who refuse to be defined by someone else’s concept of what’s right and normal.
Of course, not everyone was enthused by the campaign.
#JadenSmith Androgynous. Breaking gender roles. All excuses to put a man in women’s clothing. Not fashion forward. I love fashion, not this.
— $napChat LordOfMercy (@Grafh) January 4, 2016
Will Smith outta be ashamed of himself for letting his kids run rampant out here….#Jadensmith
— Jared (@JaredBBC) January 5, 2016
#JadenSmith face of #LouisVuittonWomensWear.Forget gender roles @LouisVuitton, how about making clothes to fit WOMEN not teenage boys?
— Tammy Pescatelli (@TammyPescatelli) January 4, 2016
While gender fluidity is one of the top advertising trends for 2016, that doesn’t mean that the resulting controversy is going to just go away quietly with time. This is, after all, an election year in the United States and many people are still wrestling with LGBT rights in general. More than a few people running for office (mostly old white men) are threatening to roll back those advances if they are elected, which is all the more reason to be voting against them.
Ads like this might inflame controversy, but ultimately they champion gender fluidity and individuality and win more customers than they lose. High-end fashion houses are more than a bit concerned about attracting millennials and embracing the issues that this important demographic hold dear is ultimately a win for the brand. This is another case where even negative comments become positive publicity for the label.
What may be slightly more disconcerting for the long-term is the second surprising aspect of this campaign: the inclusion of a video game character in lieu of a model. The label chose one of the most popular game franchises of the decade, Final Fantasy, and then tapped one of its most visible characters, Lightning, the girl with the rose-colored hair.
Once again, the Louis Vuitton brand managers are playing directly to strong trends going into the new year. Lightning is a strong female character and is especially popular with female gamers, whose ranks have grown exponentially over the past few years. Playing to this trend is likely to make the brand desirable among a group that traditionally has ignored luxury branding.
Why this particular move might be disconcerting, however, is that it uses technology to replace flesh-and-blood models. Final Fantasy is one of the most high-tech animated games on the market with its characters being extremely life-like and relatable, which is one of the reasons it has retained its popularity. Fashion watchers and more than a few designers have previously wondered out loud whether high-tech might one day replace the need for hiring models both in campaigns and on the runway. While the technology isn’t inexpensive, it would still be cheaper, and more reliable, than working with real people. Does LV’s move signal
Does LV’s move signal the end of modeling as we know it? Probably not for the immediate future; we are still too heavily invested in the personality and celebrity of models to replace them with anything digital just yet. However, as the fashion industry continues to wrestle with issues such as under-aged models and severe weight issues, be sure that every other major brand is watching to see how well the animated model does. Somewhere five or so years down the road, we may very well look back at this moment as the point at which fashion modeling with real people came to an end. All we need are avatars that can walk a runway and with the strong rush of virtual reality that technology cannot be too terribly far away.
This is, combined, a huge win not only for the Louis Vuitton label but for all the LVMH holdings. With such a tremendous response on its day of release, expect the marketing teams for other labels to follow suit. Louis Vuitton hasn’t gotten this much attention since Marc Jacobs left the house. No matter what one’s personal opinions may be, nor the long-term effect on the industry, this campaign is one that will have everyone paying attention when the fall/winter line hits the runway in Paris next month.
Louis Vuitton creative director Nicolas Ghesquière said of this season, “We are all living with this new dimension. We are all managing how to integrate these new notions of digital, virtual, and cyber with our real life.” This campaign is obviously the manifestation of the designer’s vision. I can’t wait to see what he does next.
And The Living Is Easy
A Quiet Moment (2012). Model: Sarah Harris
“All in all, it was a never-to-be-forgotten summer — one of those summers which come seldom into any life, but leave a rich heritage of beautiful memories in their going — one of those summers which, in a fortunate combination of delightful weather, delightful friends and delightful doing, come as near to perfection as anything can come in this world.” ― L.M. Montgomery, Anne’s House of Dreams
[one_half padding=”4px 10px 0 4px”]So much has happened this week. Global media and the Internet hardly know where to turn because the amount of excitement, and in some cases concern, is overwhelming. We do well to focus on one thing at a time and this week has seen the country grapple with issues of race and symbolism, healthcare, affordable housing (hope that one didn’t sneak past you) and marriage equality. We’ve been so very busy with what’s going on in our own country that we’ve largely ignored anything happening elsewhere. Greece appears to be going into default. The self-proclaimed Islamic State killed dozens in France, Tunisia, and Kuwait. China has been selling 40-year-old meat. The Vatican officially recognized the Palestinian State. This has not been the quiet summer week I had anticipated when we started on Sunday.
In fact, if this is how the summer is going to start, I’m rather fearful of where we might go next. Both of the really big Supreme Court rulings have been handled now. There’s no more good news left to immediately anticipate. Should we be setting ourselves up to deal with disaster, death, and destruction? Certainly, there are some who are calling for such in the wake of this week’s rulings, but we tend to look upon those as extreme views, and, like almost everything Americans say, we don’t actually expect anyone to follow through on those threats.
Summer is that time we want to just live in the moment, not worry about what happened yesterday or might happen tomorrow, but throw caution to the wind and enjoy what is happening right now. Certainly, we need those moments. We need a lot of those moments. Our minds do not respond well to this constant overflow of information and we desperately need and long for days where the valve is shut off for a few minutes and we can just soak up the sun and give our minds time to process. If we keep going at full tilt, then we put our health and perhaps even our lives in danger. Stress kills and has a large arsenal of weapons at its disposal. [/one_half]
[one_half_last padding=”4px 4px 0 10px”]At some point in the future, maybe ten or even twenty years from now, we might look back on this summer and remember something, but what will it be? Will this week’s SCOTUS decisions be the highlight? For those directly affected by the outcome, perhaps so. I have friends from high school who were quite anxious about applying for a marriage license yesterday. For the rest of us, though, there remain several weeks of summer where we might still find even more monumental events. If so, I do hope they are happy ones.
Not everyone gets happy summer memories. Another friend’s father died today, rather unexpectedly. I don’t have to wonder how he’ll remember this summer. The obituary page is never empty and for every name listed there is someone whose summer has been devastated. So it is with every summer. Some win. Some lose. Some are fortunate if they come out even. Kat’s little ones might remember this as the summer of their first garden. Some will remember this as the summer of the great floods, while others remember the severe droughts, dramatic water rationing, and life-threatening heat. Everyone’s experience is different and everyone’s memory unique, even when it’s faulty.
So, perhaps it best that we end this week of summertime joys with a moment of reflection, looking back on all that has happened this week and pondering what might yet come down the road. If you are lucky, perhaps you can do that pondering while sitting on the end of a springboard, dangling your feet in a pool. Maybe you can have the moment of reflection while sitting in the shade of a great tree or snuggling with a pet. Whatever your situation, take a moment to turn off the intake valve and rest. There’s still a whole lot of summer left to enjoy.[/one_half_last]
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